Mountain Ushba, Mestia

4.9
#1 of 8 in Nature in Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti Region
Ushba is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 highest peaks of the range, Ushba is known as the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus" for its picturesque, spire-shaped double summit. Due to its steep profile and unstable weather, Ushba is considered by many climbers as the most difficult ascent in the Caucasus.
Ushba's south summit is slightly higher than its north summit, which has an elevation of 4690m. The north summit was first climbed in 1888 by John Garford Cokklin and Ulrich Almer, while the south summit saw its first ascent in 1903 by a German-Swiss-Austrian expedition led by B. Rickmer-Rickmers.
Ushba's north summit is more accessible than the south summit: the standard route, the Northeast Ridge, ascends from the Russian side of the range to a high plateau and thence to the summit. The route is graded French AD+ or Russian 4a. Routes on the south summit, from the Georgian side, include two routes graded French ED.
In August 2012, thunderstorms made the ascent of Ushba treacherous. One climber died and another, Andranik Miribyan, was stuck near the summit for four days after becoming trapped on a ledge by heavy snowfall. Due to high winds, rescuers were unable to reach him by helicopter and Andranik made the decision to descend the mountain, despite having no ice axe after his broke while clearing snow.
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Mountain Ushba Reviews
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4.9
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  • We approached the mountain by car. We stopped at the hikers cafe. We dont like to hike so we stayed there. If you want to go near with car you need a 4x4 with 4LLC. DONT TRY WITH A NORMAL CAR!  more »
  • The best meeting with this mountain for a tourist - climbing on cable cars up to the pass from Mesedia. In fact, very soon the whole almost half-hour climb and the descent will be dedicated to the novel with this dazzling smile of the Caucasian mountains, Tk Ushba looks like a couple of dazzling cheerful teeth, growing and growing from the opposite slope. The mountain has such an unforgettable silhouette akin to Mont Blanc, that once you see it - then you will not forget, and being in Svaneti, you will always then look for it with the eyes among other peaks. And you understand a lot about it in the Hergiani Museum, there are two titans-man and a mountain merge into a magnificent legend. Ushba is probably a symbol of Svaneti
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